Răcituri

Răcituri, known in some areas as piftie, are a traditional winter dish of meat in aspic, never absent from the Moldovan celebration table, especially around Christmas and New Year. Translucent, cold and jellied, with pieces of meat suspended in a clear aspic, răcituri are a substantial and savoury starter, served cold and prepared in quantity for the great days.

How it is made

Răcituri are obtained by boiling at length cuts of meat rich in collagen, such as trotters, ears, rind and pig's head, or poultry, especially cockerel and turkey. These parts, simmered for hours over a low heat together with carrot, onion, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaves, release the natural gelatine that makes the liquid set when cold, with no gelatine added.

After boiling, the meat is boned and chopped, the good pieces being picked out carefully, then arranged in deep plates or in trays. The liquid is poured over, strained through muslin so that it stays clear, with plenty of crushed garlic added — the secret of the characteristic taste. The dishes are left in the cold, in the larder or outside in the winter frost, where the aspic sets by itself and takes on its firm, trembling consistency. When served, răcituri are often garnished with slices of boiled carrot and sprinkled with a little pepper, and are cut into portions with a knife.

When it is eaten and its cultural role

Răcituri are, above all, a dish of winter and of the winter holidays. They are usually made after the pig is slaughtered and are served at Christmas and New Year meals and at the memorial feasts of this period, alongside pickles, fresh bread and a small glass of fruit brandy. The cold outside is their natural ally, helping the aspic to set without a refrigerator.

For Moldovans, răcituri are closely bound to the atmosphere of the winter holidays and to the tradition of slaughtering the pig, an important moment of the year in the peasant household. Making them takes time and patience, but repays it with an intense taste of garlic and meat. They remain a symbol of the abundant celebration table and of a cook's skill in turning modest cuts of meat into a delicacy appreciated by all.